The town of Chilas, our next stop that evening, might have looked look like casting central for the Taliban, with its heavily bearded menfolk, but looks can be deceptive.

• 那天晚上我们到达下一个住宿点齐拉斯镇，这里有很多长着大胡子的老乡，看上去像是塔利班的老巢，但是我们不能以貌取人。