SEATED at a rickety table, saltshaker poised above a bowl of delicate chicken-and-ginseng soup, the young Taiwanese woman considered a question: why not use soy sauce?

• 坐在一张摇摇欲坠的桌子后面，桌上摆着一碗人参鸡汤，盐瓶放在一旁，这个年轻的台湾女人正在想一个问题：为什么不用酱油呢？