As midnight approached at Bardo one weekend early this summer, I had to bob and weave among the 100 people squeezed in its two main rooms.

• 今年初夏的一个周末，当午夜降临的时候，巴都的两个大厅里挤满了100位客人，我只能在他们中间弯弯曲曲地绕行。